{"id":2388,"date":"2014-01-15T14:19:18","date_gmt":"2014-01-15T18:19:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.andresz.com\/wordpress\/?p=2388"},"modified":"2014-03-10T15:47:48","modified_gmt":"2014-03-10T19:47:48","slug":"nicaragua-granada","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/wordpress\/?p=2388","title":{"rendered":"Nicaragua &#8211; Granada"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Cordoba\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/0_cordoba.jpg\" alt=\"Cordoba\" width=\"700\" height=\"401\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Granada was founded by Hern\u00e1ndez de C\u00f3rdoba (one of two conquistadors with that name, probably not the one you&#8217;re thinking of) in the 16<sup>th<\/sup> century. The town was repeatedly sacked by pirates in the 17<sup>th<\/sup> century, including one Captain Morgan. In the 19<sup>th<\/sup> century, a man from Tennessee, William Walker, was hired to fight in one of the civil wars but instead took the whole country over in an attempt to make a slave state to support the South during the U.S. civil war. He burned much of Granada to the ground. Managua took over as capital and Granada rebuilt itself as what you\u2019ll see now, a Spanish Colonial gem you <em>must<\/em> see if you visit the country. I recommend at least an overnight stay, as there may be too much to see in a day and plenty to do in the evenings.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/1_granada.jpg\" alt=\"Granada\" width=\"700\" height=\"533\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The town\u2019s centerpiece is a park where trees provide shade to vendors selling trinkets to tourists and lunch to locals. The square is surrounded by candy-colored stucco buildings extending for several blocks. Beautiful wooden doors and amazing tile work abound. A green, cloud-shrouded volcanic peak forms the backdrop for one side of town. The slate-blue waters of Lake  Nicaragua sit below the town, with the volcanic island, Zapatera, in the distance.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/10_granada.jpg\" alt=\"Granada\" width=\"440\" height=\"800\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/7_tile.jpg\" alt=\"Granada\" width=\"500\" height=\"429\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/9_granada.jpg\" alt=\"Granada\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/8_tile.jpg\" alt=\"Granada\" width=\"500\" height=\"469\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/7_granada.jpg\" alt=\"Granada\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/9_tile.jpg\" alt=\"Granada\" width=\"600\" height=\"389\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/11_granada.jpg\" alt=\"Granada\" width=\"700\" height=\"627\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The joyous colors are occasionally contrasted by homeless people, trash, graffiti, and rot, as with any city. Cell phone towers, satellite dishes, street lights, and power lines ensure your photos will have some modern touches to them, whether you want them or not. Though they continue to build in Spanish Colonial style, Granada is a living city, not a theme park.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/6_granada.jpg\" alt=\"Granada\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/8_granada.jpg\" alt=\"Granada\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Standing watch over the town square is a lovely yellow and white cathedral with quite a few interesting sculptures and murals inside.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada Cathedral\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/2_cathedral.jpg\" alt=\"Granada Cathedral\" width=\"650\" height=\"800\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada Cathedral\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/3_cathedral.jpg\" alt=\"Granada Cathedral\" width=\"700\" height=\"933\" \/><\/p>\n<p>A couple of blocks up the hill from the park is another church, Iglesia la Merced, this one in need of some restoration on the facade but still lovely inside.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Iglesia la Merced\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/12_merced.jpg\" alt=\"Iglesia la Merced\" width=\"700\" height=\"535\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Iglesia la Merced\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/14_merced.jpg\" alt=\"Iglesia la Merced\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Iglesia la Merced\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/15_merced.jpg\" alt=\"Iglesia la Merced\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Iglesia la Merced\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/19_merced.jpg\" alt=\"Iglesia la Merced\" width=\"600\" height=\"449\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The real draw, however, is the bell tower, open seemingly at random to  visitors. There is a small charge, and the stairs are steep, narrow, and  twisting, but it is worth it for the sweeping view of the town.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Iglesia la Merced\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/20_view.jpg\" alt=\"Iglesia la Merced\" width=\"700\" height=\"933\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Iglesia la Merced\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/21_view.jpg\" alt=\"Iglesia la Merced\" width=\"700\" height=\"856\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Iglesia la Merced\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/22_view.jpg\" alt=\"Iglesia la Merced\" width=\"700\" height=\"783\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Iglesia la Merced\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/23_tower.jpg\" alt=\"Iglesia la Merced\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft\" title=\"pre-Columbian sculpture\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/32_museum.jpg\" alt=\"pre-Columbian sculpture\" width=\"394\" height=\"800\" \/>There are also several museums, one featuring pre-Columbian artifacts and statuary from the nearby island  of Zapetera, others with photo exhibits from Nicaragua&#8217;s past and modern art. There are a few pottery shops in the old part of town where you can find \u201cauthentic replicas\u201d of some of this pottery, as one of our guidebooks phrased it.<\/p>\n<div style=\"clear:both\"><\/div>\n<p>Granada has more going for it than history. There is a bustling market for locals with hundreds of booths selling produce, shoes, eggs, chicken, clothing, electronics, more produce, and more shoes. There doesn\u2019t seem to be much point in going deeper than a block into the twisting maze. It gets redundant quickly and it\u2019s not exactly souvenir territory.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada market\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/26_market.jpg\" alt=\"Granada market\" width=\"700\" height=\"613\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada market\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/27_market.jpg\" alt=\"Granada market\" width=\"500\" height=\"606\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft\" title=\"Granada\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/24_modern.jpg\" alt=\"Granada\" width=\"400\" height=\"595\" \/>Granada&#8217;s artistic efforts aren&#8217;t entirely focused on the past either. We saw new sculpture, photography, murals, paintings, you name it.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/30_modern.jpg\" alt=\"Granada\" width=\"400\" height=\"611\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The town itself is a photographer&#8217;s wet dream. Everywhere you look are amazing colors, interesting people, rich textures, and strange dichotomies.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Iglesia la Merced\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/13_merced.jpg\" alt=\"Iglesia la Merced\" width=\"622\" height=\"900\" \/><\/p>\n<p>You could say the same for Nicaragua as a whole, but it seems more concentrated in Granada. I was only there for about 24 hours and I took nearly 400 photos, and wish I&#8217;d taken far more. And that&#8217;s without seeing whatever parade <em>this <\/em>was for.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/28_modern.jpg\" alt=\"Granada\" width=\"700\" height=\"488\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Get beyond the central part of town and you\u2019ll find yourself in less charming surroundings.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"Granada\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/33_granada.jpg\" alt=\"Granada\" width=\"700\" height=\"463\" \/><\/p>\n<p>You may also get lost. Granada, like much of Nicaragua, is almost entirely devoid of signage. We had to guess our way across town based on the quality of the streets. We knew the major through-way was part of the Pan-American  Highway and well maintained, so any time the road began to crumble we turned back and looked for a busier, better-maintained street.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright\" title=\"Nicaraguan food\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/29_food.jpg\" alt=\"Nicaraguan food\" width=\"350\" height=\"467\" \/>If it\u2019s souvenirs you\u2019re after, there is a lakeside development  targeted more at tourists. A long pedestrian-friendly street leads that  direction, lined with spendy shops and trendy restaurants. We stopped  for a snack and a beer, enjoying some Nicaraguan fare. A local guy chatted us up for a while, before easing into a sales pitch, offering to  hook us up with carriage rides. When that pitch failed, he switched gears to organic cigars. No? Cuban rum? He couldn&#8217;t get a nibble so he wandered off to fish elsewhere. It wasn&#8217;t that these things didn&#8217;t appeal to us. We were just confident we could find them without the middle man.<\/p>\n<p>Granada offers lots of food options, from funky caf\u00e9s to street vendors to a surprising  variety of fine dining. At night, the patios along the pedestrian street attract locals and tourists alike, though we were surprised to  find them closing up shop long before midnight on a Friday night.<\/p>\n<div style=\"clear:both\"><\/div>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft\" title=\"Imagine, Granada\" src=\"http:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/travel\/nicaragua_2013\/31_imagine.jpg\" alt=\"Imagine, Granada\" width=\"400\" height=\"621\" \/>We  trekked a few blocks off the strip to Imagine, an upscale restaurant and  bar, or, as they put it, \u201cNicaragua\u2019s largest exotic bar.\u201d We sampled  one of their specialty cocktails at $10 and found it less than a good  value. We were not tempted at all by the $39 lamb ribs, and the beer prices were more like what you&#8217;d pay in the states, but the free  live music was worth every centavo. We sat at a sidewalk table, listening to the singer and guitarist through the open windows at the front of the bar. <\/p>\n<p>A few days later, I\u2019d land in Atlanta where the temperature was 80 degrees lower than Nicaragua. The pipes in my house had burst in six places, just as I put the place up for sale. Worse, there are no volcanoes outside my window (only inside Windows, since I took about 1400 pictures in Nicaragua.)<\/p>\n<p>When is the next lottery drawing?<\/p>\n<div style=\"clear:both\"><\/div>\n<p><strong>Nicaragua:<\/strong><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/wordpress\/?p=2347\">Managua<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/wordpress\/?p=2361\">San Juan del Sur<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/wordpress\/?p=2368\">Ometepe, Rivas, Masaya<\/a><br \/>\nGranada<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Granada was founded by Hern\u00e1ndez de C\u00f3rdoba (one of two conquistadors with that name, probably not the one you&#8217;re thinking of) in the 16th century. The town was repeatedly sacked by pirates in the 17th century, including one Captain Morgan. In the 19th century, a man from Tennessee, William Walker, was hired to fight in [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2388","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-travel"],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2388","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2388"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2388\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2459,"href":"https:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2388\/revisions\/2459"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2388"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2388"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.degeneratepress.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2388"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}